Should You Visit Lord Howe Island in Winter?

Lord Howe Island is a small island paradise approximately 600 kilometres off the coast of mainland Australia. With just a few hundred permanent residents, visitors are capped at 400 at any time and it is a popular holiday destination for both Australians and international tourists.

The Australian winter is in the months of June, July and August, which is the off-season for Lord Howe and you might not think is the best time to be visiting, but depending on what kind of holiday you like there may actually be some good reasons to think about visiting at this time of year. I visited at the beginning of June and thought it was a great time to go.

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Reasons to visit Lord Howe Island in Winter

It’s Cheaper

The restricted numbers of visitors allowed on the island mean it’s a destination of some exclusivity, and as with any tourist destination it can be expensive to visit in peak season.

Accommodation will be cheaper at this time of year, and chances are you’ll find flights are too. Qantas flies to Lord Howe Island’s tiny airport with several flights daily, and if you’re a Qantas Frequent Flyer member and can be somewhat flexible on your dates you may even snag yourself a reward flight for just $90 and 6,000 points.

It’s Quieter

Being such a small island you can imagine the town and beaches can get pretty busy in Summer, and it might be harder to get reservations or the accommodation you want.

I would estimate there were less than 100 people visiting Lord Howe Island in early June. The locals get to know your face and name and everyone says hello or stops for a chat. It’s a really nice friendly place where everyone waves or nods as they drive or cycle by. I’d been noted walking around with my camera and was asked where it was if I was seen without it, and what I’d been shooting that particular day.

You’ll only see Neds Beach this empty in Winter

The Weather

Lord Howe Island’s weather is pretty mild even in winter. It was warm enough for t-shirts during the day with just a jumper needed at night. The water wasn’t overly cold and the days were warm enough for swimming.

Even the days when the weather forecast listed rain usually meant it was a 5 minute misty rain and then the rest of the day was lovely.

Last minute plans are easy

Advance bookings for everything are essential in peak season. I was able to walk into a restaurant and get a table, or book a tour the day before.

The flip side of this is that some parts of the island will shut or wind down for the Winter. While there were still a few operators running tours a number of others had shut down, and while there were still plenty of food options to choose from, some restaurants had closed or were operating on reduced hours.

So if there is a particular place you are interested in going or tour you want to take, it is worth making enquiries to ensure that it will be running when you plan to go. The tour operators still running told me they would be finishing up by mid-June.

But if you like the kind of holiday where you are happy to do your own thing and take care of yourself, then Lord Howe Island still offers you plenty to do.

Things to do on Lord Howe Island in Winter

Visit Neds Beach

Even though I am no water baby, this was actually one of my favourite things I did on the island. During the day you can hire snorkeling gear and wetsuits to have a closer look at the reef and purchase a cup of specially formulated fish food, all by placing your money in the honesty box. Much of Lord Howe Island is a protected marine area so fishing is not permitted, kids and adults will love standing in the knee deep water as scores of fish bump against their legs for a feed.

Neds Beach also happens to be a great photography location.

Photography

Wildlife

Lord Howe Island is known as a premier bird watching location, and while the migratory birds have mostly moved on by Winter, except for a straggler or two, there are still plenty of resident birds left to photograph. Head for the airfield for an almost guaranteed chance to photograph the resident Sacred Kingfishers which love to sit on the fence there.

Flowering trees will have plenty of Lord Howe Silvereyes and you might be lucky enough to catch a Lord Howe Golden Whistler – both a subspecies which is only found on Lord Howe Island.

In town you might be lucky enough to spot some Noddys on the roof of the post office, and a Tern or two that has chosen not to migrate for the season. White-Faced Herons, which happen to be one of my favourite bird subjects being comparatively slow-moving and quite photogenic, might be found wandering along the beachside areas. You can pick up your pocket field guide to the birds of Lord Howe Island in a number of stores around the island for $12.

White Tern perched in a pine tree near Thompsons Store

Clifftop locations such as the peak of Mount Eliza offer the chance to catch some seabirds, and if you take a boat trip you’ll likely see even more, including the chance at a whale on its Winter migration or Bottlenose Dolphins which frequent the area. You may even be lucky enough to catch an Albatross, which tend to be curious about boats and will often fly close enough for a decent shot. Just bear in mind that the water is a lot less still outside of the safety of the lagoon, so some motion sickness tablets might be a good idea if, like me, you aren’t always the best traveler on water!

A Black-Browed Albatross flying by for a sticky beak

If you have an underwater camera snorkeling offers the chance for sightings of Galapagos Sharks, Rays and turtles along with oodles of fish.

Landscapes

There is no shortage of stunning vistas from which to shoot on Lord Howe Island. Head to Neds Beach to catch a sunrise between the cliffs or Lagoon Beach for an easy sunset over Mount Eliza. When the surfs up head for Blinky Beach near the airfield to photograph the waves.

Astro

There is very little light pollution on Lord Howe Island, making it the perfect location for a bit of Astrophotography when the conditions are right. Winter is the best time for photographing the Milky Way, and while there are probably plenty of spots you can find to shoot, Neds Beach is well away from light sources and offers the chance to play with light painting the mountains with the Milky Way above.

Hiking

While Mount Gower is probably the most famous hike on Lord Howe Island, it does require a guide and a full day to do it due to the difficulty. However there is no shortage of other hikes to do which don’t require a guide and offer plenty to enjoy. I managed to fit in a hike to the Valley of Shadows and a climb up Mount Eliza, which was plenty challenging in itself if you start the route from North Bay. The final part of the hike does involve some scrambling and it is alongside a rather big cliff, so this isn’t one for the faint-hearted either!

Middle Beach is a short detour from the track to the Valley of Shadows

Given there is no phone service on Lord Howe Island, and internet is only available in a handful of designated locations, it’s a good idea to let your accommodation know your plans. I had my PLB with me in the event of an emergency, but this wouldn’t have done me much good if I hadn’t been able to activate it, a reality brought acutely home to me when I took a spill coming down Mount Eliza.

Kayaking

At least one of the boatsheds was still open in early June, and Kayaks could be hired for a paddle around the Lagoon unguided.

Visit the Lord Howe Museum

Curated by resident naturalist Ian Hutton, The Lord Howe Museum is open reduced hours during the winter months so you may find it is only open a couple of days a week. Entry is free and it features natural history collections and changing displays. It also hosts regular events and weekly lectures on birds of the island, even in winter, delivered by Ian himself.

Where to Eat on Lord Howe Island

There are plenty of options for places to eat on the island, although be aware that some will close for the Winter or operate reduced hours so choices may be reduced.

Lord Howe Island has a delivery ship arrive fortnightly with supplies, so the local restaurants have an emphasis on fresh produce which can be obtained from the island.

During the high season bookings for all sit down venues are required, and while I booked my first couple of nights after that I just walked in and I was never turned away.

Thompsons General Store

Open at 9am, Thompsons was open during the first week of June but it was their last week of operation for the season. They do a number of burgers and sandwiches plus coffee.

Their bacon and egg roll is truly amazing so worth the visit if they are open!

The Anchorage

Located in pretty much the centre of the only spot you could really call town, the staff at Anchorage told me they were open year round. They don’t open until 10am in winter though so if you’re after that early coffee or breakfast this isn’t the venue.

Some of the pricier meals I had on Lord Howe, the food was delicious and there were different specials every night.

The Crooked Post

Situated directly across the road from The Anchorage, The Crooked Post is a cocktail bar primarily, but serves a walk-in meal for dinner on Sundays and lunch a few days a week. There’s no menu, whats being cooked up for Sunday dinner is put on the board in the afternoon, when I went it was a Fish Curry. No bookings are required.

They have a great balcony area out the back which can be enclosed from the cold and wind or open on warmer days. I enjoyed a cocktail over my book before heading to dinner on several occasions. They also have the locally brewed beer on tap.

The Crooked Post is a great spot to while away the afternoon with a cocktail and a book

Driftwood

One of the fancier restaurants on the island, Driftwood was also on its last weeks of operation at the start of June.

Located on site at the Ocean View Apartments the menu is more Asian inspired than elsewhere on the island but was exceptionally good.

Ocean View Apartments also serve real coffee every day from 7am – 9am. The owner joked with me he had got sick of not being able to get a coffee anywhere first thing in the morning and so had put in a machine.

Ocean View Apartments are a short walk from the town centre via the road, or a shortcut directly there through a field that starts by the tennis court on Neds Beach Road.

Bowling Club

Serving pub style food five nights a week, as the Bowling Club is a little farther afield you may find your accommodation will transport you there, while the Bowling Club will drop you back after a couple of hours. If you don’t mind the walk it is definitely still walkable, as everything on the island is.

Lord Howe Island Brewery

While I didn’t get the chance to eat here I have been told by several people that their pizza is one of the best meals on Lord Howe Island. Brewery tours are conducted on Thursday afternoons for $20, where you’ll hear about island history, all the Brewery does to supplement the island supply through their extensive nursery, and how involved they are with the growing and export of the native Kentia palm.

Jims

This was a hidden gem discovery for me as I happened to walk by on my way past to the grocery store. It is literally a backyard operation, where the residents built a cafe frontage in their yard and installed all the gear! Their coffee is probably the best I had on the whole island and they are open early! This is where the locals frequent for their morning coffee!

They don’t cook out the front but offer a selection of wraps and sandwiches for breakfast which can be heated, and they work with locals to offer a range of sweet treats.

They are open Sunday – Thursday from 7.30 – noon and they did tell me that they planned to be open for the whole season. You can find them on Middle Beach Road. You’ll walk past them if you are heading to Joy’s Shop for supplies.

Where to buy supplies on Lord Howe Island

If you’re the kind of traveler that doesn’t mind cooking for themselves to save a bit of money, then the closure of some restaurants isn’t really going to pose a major issue for you. Even if you do like to go out for a meal, chances are you’ll want to stock your room with drinks and snacks, or even have breakfast before the restaurants open.

Joy’s Shop

This is the number one place to head for supplies. Joy’s Shop is a large and well stocked general store with a range of fresh food and non-perishables on offer, and its a great place to look for anything you might have forgotten to pack! I bought a hat and travel sickness pills there. While there are a few other stores closer to the town, the selection is much more limited and I wished I’d waited til I made it to Joy’s before I shopped.

Thompsons Store

You can find some supplies available at Thompsons, but selection is much more limited.

Diamonds

Located near The Crooked Post, Diamonds is a small store offering a combination of fresh and non-perishable food options.

The great thing that they offer is pre-made local meals which can be thrown in the oven or microwave. A fantastic alternative to going out for a meal but not having to put the effort into cooking for yourself!

What you should take to Lord Howe Island for Winter

Luggage limits for traveling to Lord Howe Island are strictly enforced, so you wont have the ability to pay for more. You’ll have 7kg carry on and 14kg checked allowance, which you’ll find when you pack isn’t really all that much, so you’ll want to pack items which are versatile.

You will get both cool and warm weather, with potentially some misty rain, so you’ll need the whole swimmers, jumper and spray jacket range of clothing, plus some good walking shoes.

Some other things you may not think of to bring;

Tablet; this has become a travel staple for me. I’ve downloaded the Kindle app to it so it replaces that, you can pre-download movies and TV for watching on the flight or on the quiet nights in (there’s not really an active night life on Lord Howe) and in the case of your phone not being operational (as happened to me on day 2) its an alternative means of contact with the outside world if needed. I can also use it to view my photos from the day using an SD card reader.
Torch; there aren’t a lot of streetlights on Lord Howe Island, not so much of an issue with the longer days of Summer but definitely one in Winter! Most people will think to just use their phone, which is great except if something goes wrong with it. A headtorch will do the job too and takes up barely any weight!
Water Bottle; I always have a reusable plastic water bottle I travel with to save on buying single bottles of water. As a hiker water is really important! Mine fits nicely into the side pocket of my backpack.
A good backpack; my backpack is my carry-on bag, which serves as a great day pack for those daily adventures! The Denali daypacks are great!
Compressed Towels; A new discovery and staple addition to my backpack, these take up the space of a mint and with a bit of water expand into a little towel. Great for cleaning up on the go and biodegradable (though sadly the wrapping isn’t.)

Safety on Lord Howe Island

Its important to remember that there is no phone service on Lord Howe Island, so if you get in trouble outside of the limited range of the local wi-fi you can’t call for help.

Its a good idea to let your accommodation know when you are heading out and when you expect to return. I also carry a first-aid kit at all times and my Personal Locator Beacon. It’s best to research what PLB is best for your needs as there can be quite a variety in products.

Would you travel to Lord Howe Island in Winter?

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Unique Shoalhaven Wineries you need to visit

Stretching from Kiama in the North to Milton in the South and Kangaroo Valley in the west, the temperate climate and lush soil of the Shoalhaven coast produces wines which have received in excess of one thousand Australian and International awards. A range of varieties are produced by the eight Shoalhaven wineries, including Chardonnay, Verdelho, Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz.

Now I’ll state it up front, I am no wine connoisseur. I have a sweeter palate so if I’m drinking wine its something like a sweeter bubbly such as Moscato or Prosecco, or a dessert wine. I also enjoy liqueurs and fortified wines such as Port. So if I am heading to a winery it’s because there is something unique about it that caught my attention.

Whether you’re making a day trip from Sydney or the mountains, or staying nearby, here’s my pick of the unique Shoalhaven wineries you need to include in your visit.

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Mountain Ridge Wines

Where to find Mountain Ridge Wines

Mountain Ridge Wines is just over 9 kilometres from the town of Berry, at 11 Coolangatta Road, Coolangatta.

What do Mountain Ridge Wines offer?

Mountain Ridge are continuously experimenting with their wines and have an expanding offering which includes Cabernet Merlot, Shiraz, Semillion, Verdelho, Pinot Gris and Moscato. They are also expanding their range of Liqueurs, currently offering Watermelon, Strawberry and Macadamia.

Tastings are available for $5 per person from 9am – 3pm weekdays and 9am – 5pm weekends.

They also sell produce made onsite, including honey and jams.

Why you should visit Mountain Ridge Wines

This small, family run Shoalhaven winery has built their business on the principles of sustainability and reducing their impact on the climate. Located on the side of Cullungutti mountain, their onsite restaurant menu features seasonal South Coast produce, some even grown onsite, designed to complement different wines.

Mountain Ridge also have a schedule of events that feature live music, art, workshops and sporting events and are available as a venue for organised events and functions.

You need to try the liqueurs!

Coolangatta Estate Winery

Where to find Coolangatta Estate Winery

Coolangatta Estate Winery is just over 11 kilometres from the town of Berry, at 1335 Bolong Road, Coolangatta.

What does Coolangatta Estate Winery offer?

This Shoalhaven Winery produces a number of white wines including Savagnin, Verdelho, Chardonnay and Semillion, as well as Chambourcin, Cabernet Sauvignon and Tannat. Wine production was impacted by the 2019/20 bushfires in the region, and there are less wines in their 2020 vintage as a result. They were able to make a lovely Frizzante Rose due to the grapes being grown higher on the mountain and above the smoke.

Wine tasting at the Cellar Door is available 7 days from 10am until 5pm for $10 per person which includes 6 wines. Alternatively you can plan to spend awhile and order a wine tasting paddle for $20 per person, which features 4 100ml servings. A range of food boards can be ordered to accompany wine tasting. It is best to book in advance.

Coolangatta Estate has an onsite restaurant currently operating reduced hours, so it is best to confirm and make a booking.

The estate is also available for functions and events.

Why you should visit Coolangatta Estate Winery

They don’t come much more unique than Coolangatta Estate!

The estate is the location of the first European settlement of the South Coast of NSW in 1822. Alexander Berry and Edward Wollstonecraft settled in the foothills of Coolangatta mountain with a grant of the land and 100 convicts. It became a village including mills, artisans and tradesman and an exporter of horses and cedar internationally, and cattle, tobacco and wheat domestically.

After remaining in the Berry family until the 1940’s the estate had fallen into disrepair. It was acquired by the Bishop family in 1947 who began major restoration of the convict built buildings. They commenced growing Sauvignon Blanc grapes in the 1980’s and the first vintage was produced in 1990, proving that wine could be produced in the Shoalhaven region.

These days, visitors to the estate can stroll around the grounds to see a piece of history, and even stay on site. Most of the buildings have now been converted to accommodation.

Curious what its like to stay in a stable? Check out my stay in the Larnach Castle stables!

Two Figs Winery

Where to find Two Figs Winery

Two Figs Winery is located 17 kilometres from the town of Berry, at 905 Bolong Road, Berry. This family-owned boutique Shoalhaven winery is perched on top of a hill and visitors will drive over a cattle grate and past grazing cattle to reach the building.

What do Two Figs Winery offer?

Two Figs have a broad range of red and white wines on offer, including Rosé, Chardonnay, Shiraz and sparkling. They also have a lovely dessert wine made from late harvest Verdelho and two varieties of port.

The 2020 Frizzante Rose has an evident flavour of strawberries and will definitely appeal to lovers of sweet wine.

While Two Figs does not have a restaurant or cafe on site they do offer cheese and local produce platters to be enjoyed with their wines.

A wine tasting is $10 per person and lasts 45 minutes. Bookings are recommended.

Why you should visit Two Figs Winery

The view!

Two Figs Winery has a spectacular elevated location looking over the Shoalhaven River. The views don’t come much better for a wine tasting!

Shoalhaven Winery Tours

If you’re interested in taking a day trip to the Shoalhaven wineries, but not really keen on the driving, you can book a Shoalhaven Coast tour which includes at least two of these wineries.

If you have a group together you can also tailor your own private tour.

Virtual Tastings

The Shoalhaven wineries have commenced rolling out virtual wine tastings using Facebook watch parties. Check the Shoalhaven blog for more details.

Where to stay near the Shoalhaven Wineries

Check out the nearby options below.

If you enjoyed this glimpse of unique Shoalhaven wineries please share, and let me know how you enjoyed your visit!

Cruise the Humpback Highway; best whale watching Sydney

Every year, between the months of May and November, Humpback Whales undertake their migration along the eastern coastline of Australia. Eagle-eyed Sydneysiders may spot the whales from a number of vantage points along the coast. But if you want the chance to get a little bit closer there is only one way you’re going to do it, and that’s being out on the water! Sydney is one of the best places in Australia to observe whales.

This post contains affiliate links. Making a purchase through these links earns a small commission at no additional cost to you and is a great way to show your support to this site.

Best time to see whales

The annual migration of Humpback whales takes place between the months of May and November.

During May, June and July they are traveling north from the cold waters of Antarctica to the warmer waters of Queensland for their winter breeding and calving. During August the whales may be traveling either north or south and from September to November they are traveling south to return to Antarctica.

According to Wild About Whales, Humpback whales migrate on average approximately 5000km, which is one of the longest migratory journeys of any mammal.

Regarding time of day, I have done both a morning and afternoon session of the Go Whale Watching cruise, and the morning was significantly better for Humpback whale watching.

According to ORRCA during the Southern migration whales will tend to travel closer to the coastline to allow the calves to feed and rest and numbers will peak in October. Mothers and calves will often be accompanied by males to protect from predators.

There are some benefits to taking the afternoon cruise

Humpback Whale Migration Route

The eastern stretch of coastline of Australia has become fondly known as the Humpback Highway due to the volume of whales that travel it. It is one of multiple Humpback whale migration routes in the world. Humpback whales do not generally cross the equator, the southern population all migrate to the nutrient rich waters of Antarctica in Summer, and the warmer waters alongside South America, Africa and Australia for the Winter.

Numbers have been increasing every year since the end of commercial whaling, researchers from the Organisation for the Rescue and Research of Cetaceans predict over 35,000 Humpbacks will travel the Humpback Highway in 2020.

A Sydney Harbour Cruise with Go Whale Watching

It’s rare to see Humpback whales in Sydney Harbour, so expect to have to go out past the heads to the Humpback Highway where you have a good chance to see them. The plus side of course is you’ll get some great photo opportunities on your way! And while cloudy days may not always bode so well for weather and water conditions, they definitely make for good photos!

There’s nowhere else in Sydney to get this view!

Go Whale Watching is a family owned and operated business with a number of boats. While I was on two different boats each cruise, they were both clean and comfortable, and the company had ensured the number of people on board were strictly within state legislated requirements.

Cruising the Humpback Highway

Once out past the heads onto the open sea, the crew are positioned around the boat keeping watch for the telltale signs of the Humpback’s presence, a burst of water against the sky as they surface for air. They tell all the passengers to keep watch too, but it is the practiced eyes of the crew that inevitably spot them first.

Once spotted the crew will travel as close as they can to where the whale was spotted, and wait. Humpback whales need to come up for air regularly so eventually they will surface again, though there is no guarantee it will be in the same location. All boats are only permitted to go 100m from the whales. Anything closer than that is up to the whales.

Fortunately for the eager onlookers, Humpback whales are curious creatures so sometimes a cruise gets lucky. Once the whale surfaces the crew tells passengers to make lots of noise, to try and hold the whale’s attention and pique its curiosity.

Whale Behaviours

You may be lucky to see some of these exhibited by whales on the cruise. It took me three trips to capture all of these so don’t be disappointed if you don’t see some of them on your first attempt.

Breaching

We’ve all seen those epic shots of a whale leaping out of the water, it’s the crown jewel everyone wants to see.

Unfortunately, the one time it did happen on my second cruise I was on the other side of the boat and all I ended up capturing was the splashy aftermath!

When you’re a fraction too late for the big moment

On my third attempt though, luck was with us as the captain of the boat spotted the holy grail, a repeatedly breaching calf in the distance, and hot-tailed it over. This calf was having a grand old time putting on a spectacle for the surrounding boats and we got to watch him for at least 30 minutes. Mum didn’t join in the fun but made herself known from time to time.

Tail slapping

Also known as lobtailing, dolphins are also known to do this. The whale lifts its tail out of the water and slaps it down to make a loud noise. They may also slap the water with their flippers.

This is known as a Fluke Up Dive, when the tail lifts as the whale dives back down after surfacing.

The underside of the Humpbacks tail is called a Fluke and it is as unique as our fingerprints

Spy-hopping

This is where the whale pokes it’s head straight up out of the water to take a look around.

Check out this calf poking its head up for a look in between leaping out of the water. If you look closely you can see its eye.

Mugging

We were lucky enough to have a number of whales engage in this behaviour, which is when the whale approaches the boat and swims around it.

Circling our boat just below the surface of the water

Several were curious enough to poke their heads up to check us out, right near where I stood!

This behaviour is potentially less likely to be observed when it is a mother and calf, as mum will actively put herself between the calf and the boat.

Tips for having a great Whale Watching experience

1. The whales are more active earlier in the day. While the experience of being out on the ocean when the sun sets and the nighttime vista of Sydney coming back into the Harbour is pretty special in its own right, the timing means that the light is likely to be poor by the time you get out far enough out.

2. Check the weather. While cloudy days make for great photo lighting, it would be a bit miserable being poured upon.

3. Check the wind. You might not think about this one but it’s critical to a good experience, trust me on this one. According to the Bureau of Meteorology winds of 26 knots or more will indicate rough conditions for small boats. That’s 48km per hour.

4. If you’re a bit funny on the motion sickness thing, even if you aren’t expecting rough seas, it’s just a good idea all round to take a tablet 30mins before.

5. Wear a spray jacket. It will provide some warmth as well as protection from an errant wave. It’s not much fun sitting in wet clothes for a few hours.

Tips for photographing the Whales

While I am no professional, there are a few things that improved my chances of getting great shots.

1. Fast shutter speed. These are wild animals and they aren’t going to be still for you while you line up that great shot. Have a fast shutter speed set ready to go.

2. Don’t shoot full manual. Again, they aren’t going to say cheese and smile for you while you fiddle with your settings. I shot on Shutter Priority mode and let the camera set the rest.

3. Continuous shooting. Auto focus between shots takes precious moments, I figured out pretty quickly I was going to do better by having my camera set to take a burst of shots if I held the button down. It’s easy enough to delete the excess later and better than lamenting that moment you missed. Depending on your camera you may also be able to set to continuous focus.

4. Put a zoom lens on. I was shooting with my 40-150mm lens, which is equivalent to a 300mm on a full frame camera. I was lucky to have the whales come in nice and close for some head shots but its completely up to the whales how close they come. Chances are you’ll be shooting from a little way off.

Book your Whale Watching cruise

Book through Groupon for a great price on your cruise!

Go Whale Watching cruises depart from Pier 7 of King Street Wharf Darling harbour and run 2 – 3 sessions a day during whale season. Cruises run for a little under 3 hours.

Parking is available nearby at Darling Quarter, approximately 10 minutes walk from Pier 7.

My Photography Equipment

If you are interested in what photography equipment I use and recommend, check out some of the results in my Photography Equipment List.

Darling Harbour Accommodation

If you want to make a night of it, check out the options for accommodation in Darling Harbour below.

As always, if you loved this please share!

Ghost Tours Sydney; The Rocks Walking Tour

A Lantern Ghost Tour – A skeptics tale

All places have stories. They may vary in infamy and the ability to make us scoff, gasp in wonder, or apply a healthy dose of skepticism. As a place increases in age it collects stories, and old stories grow in the minds and mouths of the storytellers, taking upon a life all of their own and passing into myth and urban legend.

Even as a local there can be many stories we never hear and things we haven’t seen unless we go in search of them. I may not live in Sydney itself but I have lived west of it my entire life and I still have plenty to see and explore.

The Rocks, Sydney Australia, has long been my favourite part of Sydney. Perhaps it’s my British heritage and love of history, but I love that the glass and concrete high-rises and offices give way to old stone structures and cobblestone streets, some of which date back to the establishment of the New South Wales colony. So much has been buried over time and is now being uncovered as the city expands.

So its understandable that the idea of a Sydney history tour appealed to me, and a ghost hunting Sydney adventure with Lantern Ghost Tours even more so! I didn’t see any ghosts, and I’m not sure if I’m disappointed about that or not, but it was a really fun and unique evening full of places I had never seen. Read on for my The Rocks ghost tour review or book yours!

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A spooky evening begins

The Rocks is one of the most historic parts of Sydney, dating back to the late 1700’s. A sordid history of plague, crime and hardship in the early settlement of Australia lends itself to it’s reputation of one of Sydney’s spookiest locations.

My tour kicks off at 8pm, but we are meeting out front of the Endeavour Hotel on George Street at 7.45pm and I’m surprised by the number of people waiting when I arrive after a brisk stroll from my car (parking tips to come!) Our guide is waiting dressed in corsetry, top hat and tailed black jacket, dramatically speaking in a booming voice and holding the namesake lantern aloft. This is going to be fun!

We wait a while longer for the other expected guests and are then ushered around the corner into the stone courtyard of another building which provides a wall for our guide, who introduces herself as Alison, to address us from. Alison runs through the rules for the evening, and we are all told to look at someone in the group that we don’t know and remember them, they will be our buddy for the evening. Rather than everyone being delayed by headcounts for the evening, we are to sing out if we can’t find our buddy in the group. We are also dramatically told that if a ghost follows us home, to keep the lights on.

She asks us if anyone knows what a divining rod is and I raise my hand, explaining that they are allegedly used to detect the presence of water. “Exactly!” She says and with a flourish pulls a pair of silver rods out of the sack I hadn’t noticed her carrying. “They actually detect the presence of energy, and we can use them to communicate with spirits.” She proceeds to demonstrate how to hold the rods to allow them free movement, followed by asking “Is there anyone here that wishes to speak with us?” At this point the rods may move to indicate an affirmative answer, which if so you could then ask follow up questions, instructing the rods to swing one way for yes, and the other for no. She offers the rods to the group and someone puts up their hand. Another two pairs from the sack closely follow.

All primed for our evening, she sets off and we all follow.

Susannah Place

Our first destination is a spot I have never heard of on Gloucester Street. It is a heritage listed piece of The Rocks Sydney history, a terrace of four houses built in 1844. It is now the Susannah Place Museum and can be toured during the day. We are gathered in front of number 64 on the rear side of the building. It was once the corner store. Surrounded by the old stone and corrugated iron it is easy to forget we are standing in the midst of a capital city.

Alison places her lantern on the step in front of the door of number 64, but mysteriously says she will not stand there for reasons she will reveal, but invites anyone from the group to have their photo taken in the doorway. No one moves, so naturally it is me that hands my phone to a member of the group and leaps into the doorway for a photo.

She then tells us that some people report feeling touches while standing in the doorway, and passes her phone around to show a photo supposedly showing two heads coming out of the door. It seems more likely a trick of the light to me, but I snap away with my phone curious to see whether anything gets captured. It doesn’t.

There are stories of a young boy murdered by a gang in this street, as well as a prostitute who worked this part of the street. Photos posted online also refer to a curtain which appears and disappears, but in my photos it never appears.

The Susannah Place terraces from Gloucester Street

Observatory Hill – the best view in Sydney

On our way to Observatory Hill we pass through a tiled tunnel, and are encouraged to add our footprints to the hundreds already marking the tunnel walls.

I’ve never been to Observatory Hill even in daylight. Huge trees overhang the path leading up to the bandstand. I admire them for their sheer size and dominance, but Alison tells us once we have reached the bandstand that they were once used for hangings, and there are still reports of sightings of the bodies swinging from them. The very first hanging in the new colony occurred here. Observatory Hill is the highest hill overlooking the area of the Sydney settlement and served as a fort, mill, hospital and school along with being the location of the colony’s first observatory.

While it’s certainly a chilling thought, I was unable to find anything verifying hangings in Observatory Park, though Gallows Hill, the site of many, is not too far away.

Ghosts or not, its worth the trip for the view!

Parbury Ruins

In the ultimate blending of the old and new world of The Rocks, in the basement of a modern apartment block on Windmill Street is preserved the remnants of a cottage built in the early 1800’s, discovered during construction in 2000. Alison has the keys to take us down into the foundations of the ruins, including the fireplace and a well.

We are told the story of Anne Walker, who’s body was found at the bottom of the well, and the three men believed to potentially be responsible for her death. Alison tells us Anne responds better to women and has some of the women in the group take the divining rods and stand over the well while she asks questions to the atmosphere and the rods spin madly around. Alison tells us she normally responds more emphatically to one of the three names as her killer.

The only reference I found to Anne Walker and this story was on paranormal forums. I could find no evidence that such a person existed at this time.

The Hero of Waterloo

Our next stop on the walking tour is the hotel The Hero of Waterloo, one of those that claim to be the first in the region. We have to walk up an alleyway first, and Alison pauses for a moment to tie back her hair and tuck it securely under her top hat. She tells us there is a ghost that frequents this alley that is partial to women with long hair and likes to run his fingers through it. I defiantly take my long hair out of its bun and let it hang loose down my back. But apparently the ghost didn’t like mine!

The Hero of Waterloo is named after the Duke of Wellington, who defeated Napoleon, and dates back to 1843. It has a notorious past and in some circles the reputation of Australia’s most haunted pub.

Back in those times, finding sailors to work the whaling ships wasn’t easy, but many found themselves with no choice. The term was ‘Shanghaied’ – the practice of kidnapping men to serve as sailors. Many a young man might find themselves drinking at the bar one moment, to waking on a ship out at sea via the smugglers tunnel which runs from the Hero of Waterloo down to the wharf. Mediums are convinced many of them never made it out of the tunnel. There are still shackles on the walls of the cellar and the tunnel entrance is still evident. There is talk of the tunnel being reopened for the purpose of tours, possibly the ones which have recently been commenced by the hotel.

The hotels own website refers to a rumour that in 1849 the publican at the time pushed his wife down the stairs to her death and they believe she frequents the hotel. Furniture is moved in the function room where no one has been and music played from the piano in the bar in the middle of the night, stopping when the owners descend the stairs with the piano lid left open. The piano was moved down to the cellar years ago to give the owners some peace. Guests have run screaming from the women’s toilet saying they saw a lady standing behind them in the mirror.

Our attention is drawn to the window above the door, where Alison tells us a figure has at times been photographed. Once again my camera reveals nothing.

See that second row of windows? Glass was expensive – they are actually painted on!

A short walk from the Hero of Waterloo the tour concludes under The Sydney Harbour Bridge.

The Niggly bits

What should you wear?

Ladies, leave the heels at home, or at least in the car. Many of the streets in The Rocks are old cobblestone and the steps down to the Parbury Ruins are of the holey scaffolding variety. You’ll be asking for trouble in heels.

How long does it run for?

It runs pretty close to the two hour mark.

Where should you park?

Street parking is pretty plentiful in The Rocks, paid for in blocks of two hours. If you head for Lower Fort Street you will be in proximity of both the start and finish points.

Is it real?

How long is a piece of string? The history is undoubtedly so. As for the stories, they say that the tour was put together with the assistance of mediums. I was able to verify some, such as the Hero of Waterloo and I saw references to the other tales mentioned in passing as we walked past other old hotels in the area. Some I wasn’t able to corroborate, but who’s to say how good the records were back then.

Will you see a ghost?

Best to temper your expectations here. While I am skeptical I am open to the possibility that there are things beyond our understanding, but there was nothing I witnessed on the tour to convince me.

Should you take a Lantern Ghost Tour of The Rocks?

The Rocks is a really old and interesting part of Sydney and personally I think it is a beautiful part of the city. I thought it was worth the money just to walk around and see some parts of The Rocks I hadn’t before and hear about their history. If you are looking for a Sydney night tour it is definitely a good bit of fun.

How much is it?

Get Your Guide sells this tour starting from $36.

Whether its a haunted location or just a street, The Rocks at night lends itself to some spooky and atmospheric photography.

Accommodation in The Rocks

If you want to make a night of it, check out the accommodation options in The Rocks below.

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Gigging in wine country; Making the most of Hunter Valley concerts

The Hunter Valley, about 250 kilometres from Sydney, is best known as one of Australia’s premier wine regions. In recent years the Hunter Valley has earned a burgeoning reputation as the hottest music destination, with a number of wineries taking advantage of their large property to play host to big name international artists and a day serving their wines to thirsty patrons seeking a fun day out. It has become commonplace for artists to add a Hunter Valley venue to their Australian tour, Kylie Minogue, Bryan Adams, Live and The Killers just to name a few!

If you’re thinking of buying tickets to a concert in the Hunter Valley, here’s some tips and tricks to make sure you have an amazing time!

This post contains affiliate links. Making a booking or purchase through these links comes at no additional cost to you and is a great way to show your support for this site.

Make it a Hunter Valley weekend away!

Chances are, if you’re heading to a Hunter Valley Concert you’re from out of town, so it makes a world of sense to get a group of friends together and make a weekend of it.

Accommodation prices increase any weekend there’s a concert on, but with a group you can make this much more cost effective by renting a house for the weekend. And besides, its just way more fun!

Hunter Valley Accommodation

Hunter Homestead

My last concert weekend was a group of nine adults, so naturally you need to think about the space you need, and a single bathroom place just isn’t going to cut it. Myself and the other organiser settled on the lovely Hunter Homestead. The two-storey house features five bedrooms plus a sofa bed, two bathrooms and an additional toilet, a paved undercover area out back with the barbeque and outdoor dining setting, plus a fire pit and plenty of firewood. The owners also live on the property for any issues.

Split nine ways the cost was less than $200 each for the weekend, and to further keep costs down everyone brought food to contribute so we were able to cook some meals rather than eating out.

A two bedroom cottage shares the outdoor area and makes Hunter Homestead suitable for even larger groups.

Wilderness Cottages

Another property with multiple choices for accommodation making it suitable for groups is Wilderness Cottages. Wilderness Cottages offer a charming two bedroom cottage, a two bedroom balcony apartment and a one bedroom apartment. All guests have use of the pool and again the owners are on the property.

I stayed here on a weekend that was just a friend and I, so we had the cottage. Each of the rooms had a comfortable queen size bed, the lounge featured a combustion fireplace and a barbeque on the front verandah. The property was large and had lovely views as the sun went down.

Enjoying a glass of wine looking out over the Hunter Valley

Emma’s Cottage

Emma’s Cottage was a close runner-up for the accommodation for my last trip. It is situated on a vineyard and the owners are lovely people who bought the place a number of years ago for a sea-change from the city. There are four cottages to choose from, ranging from two to four bedrooms and guests have access to a pool.

Emma’s Cottage is one of my favourite Hunter Valley vineyards. If you go to their cellar door, be sure to ask to try their trademark Ruby – a carbonated red wine.

You can check out other options for accommodation below.

Hunter Valley Buses

There’s a reason I chose and recommend these accommodation options, and it’s a practical one. They are on the bus route.

When the Hunter Valley concerts are on the bus network runs like a well oiled machine, with a number of routes through the region picking up and dropping patrons off at the venue. Even if you wanted to drive, you would struggle to park anywhere, so your best and easiest option really is buying the $20 return bus trip.

Emma’s Cottage and Wilderness Cottages are both on Wilderness Road, and are pickup points on the bus route. Hunter homestead has a pickup a short 200m walk down the road.

The schedule generally goes through each route twice so check the timetable to ensure you pick the one best suited to you, and buy your tickets online in advance so they know they are picking you up.

Check out Rover Coaches for all the information.

Don’t forget where to meet your bus after the show!

Your Hunter Valley concert

There are a number of wineries that host concerts, Hope Estate, Roche Estate and Bimbadgen included. Each one has their own regulations around what will be permitted into their venue. Make sure you check their website for any restrictions on what you can take in.

List of things you need

1. A small backpack; you’re in for a long day.

2. A vinyl backed picnic blanket. Most venues will not permit you to bring in chairs, and you’ll have to carry anything you want anyway so the less bulky items you pack the better.

3. If you prefer something more supportive on your back an alternative to the picnic blanket is a beach mat.

4. Powerbank; don’t underestimate the importance of this one. My last concert weekend one of our group wasn’t able to locate us again in the dark and her phone battery had gone flat. She ended up having to get a taxi home after the show because she missed our bus and couldn’t call us. Besides, think of how much it would suck trying to walk back to your house after the bus dropped you off if you can’t use the torch on your phone. I am rarely without my Cygnett powerbank.

5. Cash; take at least some cash with you as a just in case to buy food and drinks. They will have EFTPOS facilities and sometimes an ATM, but I have seen the EFTPOS go down before, meaning hundreds of people lining up to get cash from an ATM. Ain’t nobody got time for that.

Weather specific items – Hot

Depending on the time of year the chances are pretty good that you’ll have fine weather. Be aware it can get very hot, and there is no shelter whatsoever. There will be free water stations available to stay hydrated.

1. Hat

2. Sunglasses

3. Suncream

It can also get very cold in the Hunter Valley at night. So sticking a pair of leggings and a light jumper in your backpack isn’t a bad idea either. I used both at the concert where the day had been stinking hot.

Weather specific items – Wet

This happened to me at my last Hunter Valley concert. It was still an amazing day, but it can get a little uncomfortable being sopping wet all night, and umbrellas are not permitted, so if wet weather is predicted for your show there are some things that can make it a little more comfortable.

1. Emergency Ponchos; just get all your group to chuck in on some of these. The more you can keep dry the better.

2. A nice dry jumper will be the best thing you ever saw at the end of the night.

3. Stick a garbage bag in your backpack. If it starts to rain whip it out and put the backpack in it. Viola – everything stays dry!

4. This is an out there idea perhaps, but one of our group last year brought a small tarp. It wasn’t big enough to keep us dry but it served to protect our things from the worst of the weather. A groundsheet would work equally well.

5. Think about a lightweight towel too. Turkish towels are great because they are so compact yet effective.

A sea of ponchos on a wet concert weekend

Last but not least, don’t forget to have a great time!

Food in the Hunter Valley

Whether you are looking for somewhere for a meal or some delectable treats to try there are plenty of options in the Hunter.

Hunter Valley Cheese Tasting

Hunter Valley Cheese Factory

Located in Pokolbin this small cheese factory is located at McGuigan Wines and immensely popular with tour buses, so hit it early to avoid the crowds.

Hunter Valley Smelly Cheese Shop

Stocking local, imported and artisan cheeses, as well as a range of other produce and gelato, Hunter Valley Smelly Cheese Shop is worth the visit. Stop in for a cheese and olive tasting platter.

You can also organise tours that incorporate cheese tastings. Check them out here.

Hunter Valley Chocolate Factory

The Hunter Valley Chocolate Company is a must, offering a range of delectable treats to make the mouth of any chocolate lover water! I always visit on my trips and inevitably spend far too much money. It’s a great place to shop for gifts for the chocolate fan in your life. They have a store at Hunter Valley Gardens and Peterson House and a boutique factory on Broke Road, Pokolbin.

Sabor Dessert Bar

While you’re on Broke Road, don’t drive past Sabor Dessert Bar. The coffee is great and their range of stunning desserts is just wonderful. Savor the sweetness as you look out on the vineyards and mountains in the distance.

Harrigan’s Irish Pub

Located in Pokolbin, Harrigans is the local pub for the region and often has live music on a weekend. It offers a menu of quality pub-style meals and snacks, the chicken schnitzel was one of the most tender I had ever had!

The Deck

Located in Lovedale, The Deck is a charming place looking over a large pond. While it has grown much larger in the years since my first visit it can get exceptionally busy so you may need to make a booking to be guaranteed a table.

Emersons

Located just a short drive down the road from The Deck in Lovedale, I stumbled upon this one by accident when we couldn’t find anywhere else to accommodate us. I’ll definitely be going back! They have one of the best breakfast menus I’ve seen with something to pique the interest of even the pickiest eater! I’m not kidding – my sister is one!

Things to do in the Hunter Valley

Hunter Valley concerts will be on a Saturday night, so you’re going to have some extra time to kill. Fortunately there is plenty to fill up a weekend in the Hunter region.

Hunter Valley wineries

Wine is a unique taste so everyone will have their own preferences. Some of my favourites are somewhat off the beaten track but no problem to get to if you have a vehicle.

Sandalyn Estate

I first visited Sandalyn Estate years ago when it was included on a wine tour on a hens weekend. They had an amazing Botrytis Semillon that I wish I had bought more of. My last two trips there they disappointingly haven’t had any of the same calibre, but their grounds are beautiful and they have some nice sparkling wines on offer, glitter decorated if it is the lead up to Christmas. They also serve coffee if you’re looking for that morning caffeine hit and you can try a number of delicious olive oil varieties.

Sandalyn Estate is on Wilderness Road Rothbury, it is a short drive from the three recommended accommodations.

Emma’s Cottage

Even if you don’t stay there, It is worth the visit to Emma’s Cottage cellar door. Make sure you try the Ruby, it was the result of an accident.

Thomas Allen Wines

A beautiful little boutique winery in Pokolbin, Thomas Allen Wines is a great place to take a group and relax at a table under the verandah. Make sure you try the Mistura if they have some, it’s pricey but very worth it.

Savannah Estate

This is my absolute favourite. It is out of the way and in the middle of nowhere, so this is one you would probably schedule to visit on your way home. I discovered Savannah Estate on one of my concert trips while in search of a good Port. I didn’t find the Port, but their sparkling Moscato is simply divine! I stop by every trip to pick up a bottle or two.

Bramblewood Fruit Wines

This one is so off the beaten track it doesn’t even have a website or a listing on Trip Advisor! If it is still around you’ll find it at 80 Lindsay Street, Belford in the lower Hunter Valley, and it’s worth the trip just for the unique, quirky value. Depending what is in season you can sample a range of fruit wines, including passionfruit, mango and boysenberry. It is the only fruit winery in the Hunter.

Check out some other top Hunter Valley wineries recommendations.

Hunter Valley Wineries Map

Plan your attack by downloading a Hunter Valley Wineries Map.

Hunter Valley Wine Tours

If you aren’t quite committed to doing your own thing, there are a couple of options for wine tours.

Ihop Hunter Valley run a hop-on/hop-off bus service that circuits twenty-five different wineries. You can choose which ones you get off at and stay as long as you please, grabbing the next bus when you are ready to move along.

Hunter Valley Wine Tours can take you on set small group tours or you can organise a private one. I’m told that they don’t bring out the good wines on group tours though!

Check out some other wine tour options here.

Christmas Lights Spectacular

If you happen to be in the Hunter between November and January it is worth the visit to Hunter Valley Gardens for their Christmas Lights spectacular. Featuring food, rides and an epic display of millions of Christmas lights, this will delight kids and adults alike!

Bookings can be made online but we were able to get in without a booking with no issues.

Hot Air Balloons Hunter Valley

I can’t vouch for experience on this one, as I’m not overly comfortable with heights, but the Hunter Valley region is well known for its hot air ballooning, Beyond Ballooning offers breakfast and flight packages.. This probably isn’t an activity you would look to do on a Sunday morning after the concert, given the early start.

Each October long weekend there is the Hunter Valley Balloon Fiesta, balloons from all over the country will launch at sunrise to float over the countryside. I’m putting it on my bucket list to get there next year.

Hunter Valley Helicopters

Another one I can’t vouch on experience for the same reason as above. But if this piques your interest Slattery Helicopters and Hunter Valley Helicopters both offer flights over the valley.

Both the helicopter flight and hot air ballooning are activities which would require booking in advance.

Know of any other great activities in the Hunter Valley? Drop me a line and let me know!

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Popup Globe Sydney – Shakespeare in the Round

As a drama student of many years I have a keen appreciation of anything Shakespeare done well, so when an advertisement for Popup Globe Sydney came across my Facebook (how does it always know these things?) my interest was piqued. So much so that sitting at home one night I bought myself a ticket to my favourite of the Shakespearean works; A Midsummer Nights Dream. Even so many years since I last performed in a Midsummer’s production, I can still recite Puck’s final monologue.

What is the Popup Globe?

The Popup Globe is a replica of the old style theatre originally built by Shakespeare himself. It is a circular theatre with a stage set erected at the front, which I assume serves for all four plays, and three levels of seating built into the walls of the globe. Directly in front of the stage is open floor for standing patrons. At various stages of the performance the actors walk through the patrons on the floor. Some rows of seating are on the side of the stage. All seating in the walls of the globe is undercover, but the floor is open air so vulnerable to the weather.

Where is the Popup Globe?

The popup globe is currently erected at Moore Park in Sydney, in the open grass area bordered by the stadium and Hordern Pavilion.

How do you get to Popup Globe?

Moore Park is a short journey from Central station, which you can take by Bus, Uber or Taxi. However if you prefer to drive there is plenty of parking available. There is a multi-storey carpark but I always try and find a metered spot on Driver Avenue for ease of getting in and out. It’s a short walk into the complex. Check the duration of your performance so you know how much time you’ll need to pay for.

What’s on at the Popup Globe?

There is a rolling timetable of four of Shakespeare’s plays currently running until November 5th 2018, unless extended;

A Midsummer Nights Dream
A Comedy of Errors
Macbeth
The Merchant of Venice

Tickets are available through Ticketmaster and prices vary according to seating location, starting at just $25 for a standing floor spot depending on peak and off-peak performance.

Where should you sit?

That all depends on the experience you want. It is immersive theatre so expect audience involvement. If you can spend the couple of hours on your feet then standing is great fun, but be warned there’s a good chance you might be picked on from the stage, and depending on how close you are probably get some of the fake blood the actors relish throwing on as many of the audience as they can.

When is the best time to go?

I checked out a matinee performance commencing at noon and was all decked out with my sun-protective gear in anticipation of being in the full sun. However I was able to grab a spot near the stage which was shaded by the wall, and the shade spread until the whole floor was in shade as the sun moved over. If you want to stand you’ll want good weather. Evening and matinee performances are available for both weekdays and weekends.

What should you see?

If you aren’t much of a Shakespeare connoisseur the lighter comedies will probably be more to your liking.

**Lysander, Helena and Demetrius rumbling on stage while the fairy king looks on**

A Midsummer Nights Dream

Being my favourite work of Shakespeare, my standards are high, and I’m always interested to see the interpretation brought by a company.

This is pretty different!

Midsummer’s isn’t usually a play with a lot of opportunity for audience interaction, but this production has been amped up to create it. The actors have no problem interacting with the audience directly, one woman was singled out by the actor playing bottom and he referred to her throughout the performance. The actors will also seize any opportunity to incorporate something from the audience. At one point Hermia was looking longingly around the seats for Lysander, who had mysteriously disappeared. At that moment someone dropped something which clattered loudly against the metal floor. Hermia’s head snapped to the direction of the noise, calling out ‘Lysander are you there?’ When her calls were met with silence she grinned up at the seats and said ‘oh, it’s just someone dropping their chocolates.’

The pre-event email warned of the likelihood of the standing patrons being splattered by blood, and assured that it would wash out. I thought I was pretty safe with this play, but they still found an opportunity! It was pretty funny how we all shrunk away as the actors delightedly flung it out over us. I thought I’d escaped unscathed, but found a few spots on my face when I got back to my car.

It’s a pretty different kind of performance too. The fairies wore Maori costume and spoke their scenes in what I assumed was Maori, confirmed when I heard ‘Kia-Ora’ towards the end and when the finale included something resembling the Haka. While staying true to the Shakespearean dialogue there were parts where the language and costumes were more modernised. If you aren’t familiar with the story, throughout the play there are scenes with a group of actors who are preparing a play to perform for the duke. The group features a character named Bottom, who is famously transformed into an Ass by the impish fairy Puck as a prank on the fairy queen Titania. In this performance they were dressed as tradies, wearing high visibility vests labelled as ‘Sweet Ass Mechanical Solutions.’

I’ve certainly never laughed as hard at a Midsummer’s performance! The actors are high energy, rambunctious and ham up pure melodrama in order to get more laughs. They also give intensely physical performances, leaping, running around and rumbling on stage. Even though my legs and back were starting to ache by the end, it was worth it to be in the thick of the action, and you can’t beat the price for a great afternoon’s entertainment!

For more information check out the website.